Twenty-Fourth Tasting
We’ve taken a bit of detour from Scotch whisky in the last year exploring American Bourbon and Japanese Whisky, which were quite nice, but its time to concentrate on exploring Scotch again!
As we work our way through all the distilleries of Scotland we come upon Glen Grant, Cardhu and Glengoyne. No particular reason for the grouping, just some nice whisky to explore.
Glen Grant Distillery was founded in 1840 by brothers James and John Grant (J&J Grant) who were managers of the, Dandelaith Distillery, which had closed in 1837. John would go on to buy the Glenfarclas Distillery about 1870, their ownership known as J&G Grant.
In 1897 James Grant Jr. decided to build a second distillery across the road known as Glen Grant No. 2, which was idled in 1902.
In 1965 No. 2 was back in production and renamed Caperdonich. After multiple ownership changes, including Chivas Brothers from 1953-2006, Campari bought Glen Grant for 115 million euros in an acquisition that included whisky blends Old Smuggler and Braemar for another 15 million euros.
Glen Grant was the first distillery to have electric light and its distillery character is said to be a result of tall slender stills and purifiers, which create a fresh malty flavor. Glen Grant is a Speyside whisky and is in the Rothes area near the town of Aberlour. In 2006 when Gruppo Campari bought Glen Grant, it was the worlds No. 2 single malt by volume and No. 1 in France and Germany. In Italy it was the No.1 single malt and whisky. Today it is the world’s No. 5 selling Single Malt. Its water comes from the Caperdonich well on the hillside above the distillery and the Black Burn.
From the 2006 Gruppo Campari annual report: “The whisky’s fine aroma calls to mind citrus, flowers, pear, apple, vanilla, malt and wood, whilst its clean flavour is reminiscent of fruit, oranges, vanilla, liquorice and nuts.”
a vatted whisky that is rated an 82 by Dominic Roskrow of Malt Advocate magazine and an 89 by Jim Murray in the Whisky Bible.
Reviews:
Roskrow’s August 2010 review:
“This limited edition 170th anniversary bottling is made up of vintages stretching back to the 70s [1976-1999]. They include a couple of sherry butts and some peated spirit.
The result is a rich malt with some buttery toffee notes at first, distinctive lemon and green apple notes, and a touch of aniseed. Midway through, it sets off in a more feisty direction, with some peat, sharp spice, and green banana skin. Beguiling and unusual, it’s a statement of intent from an iconic distillery.”
Murray’s Review:
“Light and spiky [nose] for all the obvious fruitiness. Loads of warm sultana underpinning a butterscotch/vanilla spine. A little sharp and prickly in places, like fruit pastille candy, and just a hint of something that might appeal to the Germans… [taste] Immediately busy with a dual personality of (house style) juicy, crunchy barley and a spicier, much fruitier alter-ego.”
Awards:
About 50% of their production goes into blends such as Chivas Regal, their former owner. Their bottlings are a no age statement “Major’s Reserve,” a 5- and 10-year old and a new in 2010, 16-year old
This bottling not available in US, $130 including shipping
Cardhu has only recently made it back to the US after being pulled from distribution here in 2003. Part of the reason it was pulled was because of supply problems. Cardhu was originally sold in the US as a single malt, but as they realized they didn’t have enough single malt, they invented their own terminology, calling their brand a Pure Malt. The only thing was, it wasn’t pure. They were mixing in another single to make up the volume deficit without really telling anyone. Oops!
Carhhu (originally called Cardow, Gaelic for “Black Rock”) is part of drinks giant, Diageo’s Classic Malts Selection. This was a marketing effort from 1989, which originally offered Dalwhinnie, Glenkinchie, Cragganmore, Oban, Lagavulin and Talisker - as representative of various regional flavors of Scotch. In 2005 this concept was enlarged to include Caol Ila, Glen Elgin and Clynelish, and several stand-alone brands which have deep roots in particular markets (such as Cardhu in Spain and Knockando in France).
It is a Speyside distillery, which overlooks Ben (Mount) Rinnes and has Knockando and Tamdhu distilleries as its neighbors in the area near the city, Aberlour.
In 1893 Cardhu was sold to Johnnie Walker and Sons, who used Cardhu in its blends. Today about 70% of its output ends up in various Walker Blends. Cardhu is the biggest selling of the Diageo single malts selling about 3 million bottles per year. Their production is roughly twice the production of the number two Diageo single, Talisker. About 75% of the single malt sales are in Spain.
Reviews:
Cardhu is rated 90 by Jim Murray and 83 by John Hansell.
Hansell’s review:
“This soft, bright, easy-going whisky is back in the U.S. after being absent for several years. Very fragrant, with vibrant fruit (nectarine, plum, guava, pineapple, clementine), honeyed vanilla, and subtle macadamia. Fairly light
(a pre-dinner or leisurely afternoon malt, perhaps?), but evenly balanced. A gentle introduction to single malts for the blended scotch drinker.”
Murray’s review:
[nose] “Just about the cleanest, most uncluttered, pure, sweet malt you will ever find, a touch of apple, perhaps, giving an extra dimension.” [taste] “Again the malt is pure and rich, just a thread of oak adding some dryness and depth.”
$40-60, available locally.
Glengoyne, founded in 1833, is now owned by Ian Macleod Distillers who bought Tamdhu Distillery just a few weeks ago. Macleod is also owner of the Chieftain’s line of single malts and has several other singles and blends that they bottle. Glengoyne was bought, along with the Lang’s Whisky brand from Edrington Group in 2003 for 7.2 million pounds. Macleod also owns Smokehead Islay single malt brand, product of an un-named Islay distillery.
Glengoyne is the most southerly of the Highland malts and in character, perhaps, shares more in common with Lowland whiskies in its flavor profile. It is only about 12 miles from Glasgow. Their core range offers 10-, 12- (cask-strength), 17- and 21-year old bottlings. Several single cask bottlings have been released since 2008.
A special 40-year old bottling in a crystal decanter was produced in 2008 and released in 2009. Like Lowland whiskies, this is unpeated. The distillery claims to have the slowest distillation in Scotlalnd, at the half the rate of most distillers which allows them to capture “only the very best distillate.” The distillery takes its name from ‘Glen Guin’ or Glen of the Wild Geese.
Our bottle is the Glengoyne 12-year old cask strength, 57.2% ABV, natural color, unchill filtered. The Glengoyne line of whiskies won Whisky Magazine 'Best of the Best' and Golds and Double Golds at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition and the International Spirits Challenge
Distillery tasting notes:
Appearance: Amber, syrupy. Sauternes.
Nose: Oak, sherry, digestive biscuits, sweet oatcakes, banana, apricot, peaches, marzipan and peardrops. Does not prick the nose, despite high strength.
Mouthfeel: Viscous, rich and filling
Initial Taste: Smooth, sweet start, with some sherry and chocolate.
After Water: Becomes slightly waxy, with pepper at the tail.
Reviews:
This bottling is rated 86 by Hansell and 79 by Murray.
Hansell’s review:
“A new, cask-strength Glengoyne without chill-filtering. Both features put this whisky in a higher class than the entry level 10 year old. That classic clean maltiness which Glengoyne is known for is certainly in this whisky. With the addition of some water, the whisky really opens up, becoming fragrant, fruity (cherry pits, apples), along with hints of anise and almonds. A nice effort from the new owners.”
Gavin Smith and Tom Cannavan of whisky-pages website review:
“The 12-year-old cask strength expression has a clean nose, with just a hint of sherry, plus malt and fresh fruit that is extremely enticing. Water brings out emphatic brittle toffee notes. Smooth, well-balanced and decidedly malty on the palate, with a hint of dark chocolate, this is rather moreish. The fruity finish also brings notes of lingering Espresso coffee.” They rate it 3 1/2 stars, with 4 stars denoting “excellent”
Glengoyne Video-A Slower Pace of Life
Glengoyne Video-Distillery Manager, Robbie Hughes
This bottling not available locally, about $55-65 plus shipping.
Other media:
http://www.whisky.com/brands/glen_grant_brand.html
http://www.glengoyne.com/scotch_whisky_distillery/
Twenty-Fourth Tasting - Glen Grant 170th Anniversary, Cardhu 12, Glengoyne 12 CS
Monday, August 8, 2011
Copyright 2011 Mark Friedman
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Glen Grant Gardens
August 31, 2011 Tasting Notes and Meeting Wrap-Up
We launched our 24th tasting at the Friedman Manse. Besim and Mike were absent. We dug in to the 12-year old whiskies of the evening.
In the group, Dan liked the Cardhu best for drinking and the Glengoyne for sipping. A good distinction it seems. John, I believe thought the cask strength Glengoyne was the most pleasant but the Glen Grant was his overall fave. For everyday, Nancy liked the Glen Grant but for special occasions might opt for the Glengoyne. Hands down the Glengoyne was Mary’s fave, which was great since she took that bottle home at the end of the night. Bill opted for the Glengoyne partially because he likes the sherry influence, but he is also rather partial to cask strength bottlings.
For me, well I have to say that outside of the group environment it was hard for me to choose a fave between the Glengoyne and the Glen Grant, but tasting it for a second time with the group definitely put the Glengoyne ahead of the Glen Grant.
My notes on the whiskies:
Cardhu 12, 40% ABV. Very floral with a big hit of pear eau de vie on the nose, with apples, marshmallow and a hint of smoke. On the palate, sweet vanilla and pears, gentle maltiness, slightly creamy and oily. A bit fizzy, medium length finish. 80-85
Clengoyne 12, cask strength, 57.2% ABV On the nose: Gently nutty, vanilla, caramel, slightly red peppery. Not at all harsh as are some cask strength bottlings. Rich, creamy, caramel, vanilla, malty, spicy, banana on the palate. Long spicy finish. 85-90
Glen Grant 170th Anniversary Bottling (12-year old) 46% ABV Very complex with lots of different influences from the various casks and types of whisky included in this vatting of whiskies from 1976-1999. On the nose a slight cedar woodiness over caramel, raisins, dark cherry, and vanilla with a slight peatiness. On the palate a mellow caramel, butterscotch, sweet vanilla, almonds and malt. A gentle sweet finish. 85-90
Till the next dramfest....
Slainte!
