Eleventh Tasting

Eleventh Tasting

Ah its time to taste again! This month we are going to the isles…but fear not, this time, The Mild Isles. We’ll visit the Isle of Arran for its famous non-peated and highly rated 10-year old, and journey from Arran, northwest, past the Kintyre peninsula on the westerly side of Scotland to my favorite, Islay. But wait, you said “Mild” and so I did. Tonight we’ll taste a 17-year old from Bruichladdich and a 12-year old from Bunnahabhain, two Islay distilleries that traditionally have not produced heavily peated whisky. Nowadays, they do produce some peated versions, but for now our taste buds will be treated gently, with highly rated drams from these two islands.

The Isle of Arran has been described as Scotland in miniature. Although small in acreage (or wee as Gaels say) it has the lochs, rolling hills, lowlands, glens, streams and dramatic vistas seen on the mainland. Arran has always been a haven for distillers, just not the legal type. The first legal distillery in 150 years was established in 1995, and since its output turned 10, it has been heaped with awards including a very high rating from Jim Murray. Its water source, Loch Na Davie, has been tested as one of the most pure in Scotland and flows into the burn from which the water is drawn, running right past the distillery. Arran malt is non-chill filtered, contains no caramel coloring and is an unpeated whisky. The Isle of Arran distillery in Lochranza is independently owned.

Tonight we will be tasting Arran 10-year old, 46% ABV but the Arran range includes: Arran 100º Proof, the Robert Burns Single Malt, and casks finished in Amarone, Chianti, Fontalloro, Tokaji, Fino Sherry and others.

They also produce Robert Burns Blend, Lochranza Blend, and a cream liqueur.

Reviews:

John Hansell, editor and publisher of Malt Advocate, rates this dram an 81. His description is: A fruity-sweet whisky (but still quite light and lively), with notes of orange marmalade, lemon meringue pie, an

d apricot.

There’s also an underlying vanilla maltiness that is balanced nicely by oak spice on the finish. A respectable effort for a 10-year old and versatile enough to drink any time of the day (but I would prefer it before dinner).

Jim Murray rates Arran a 93.

Of the nose: Charming, delicate; varying citrus notes hand-in-hand with rich, butterscotch-barley; the odd youthful note thins things out.

Of the palate: The palate coated in caressing oils, to which stick the cleanest and most profound barley.

You can chew your jaw off here.

Of the finish: Developing vanillas dovetail with some of those younger new-makish notes but still cannot escape the clutches of the fat barley. Some fizzing spice decides to make an appearance.

Dave Broom, of Whisky Magazine 7 1/2

Nose: Drying grass, lawnmower box with light cereal and a sherbet like citric lift. Hints of green walnut and tangerine. Pretty...but young.

Palate: Real malty sweetness with soft fruits in the centre and balancing oak.

Finish: A little short. Seems young, but has decent balance. Good.

Comment: Have this before lunch and maybe chilled down.

Arthur Motley, of Whisky Magazine 8

Nose: Pear, lemon, crab apples and a

raspberry coulis.

Palate: A little hot without water, but settles into a light plum sauce, dark chocolate and apples. Mouth filling, complete and satisfying.

Finish: A short, tingling nutmeg.

Comment: A satisfying everyday malt.

I can’t think of a time when you wouldn’t want one of these. Populist.

Serge of Malt Maniacs gives it a three out of 5 stars and 80 points. Colour: straw.

Nose: rather cleaner but also a tad less expressive, starting more on vanilla, praline and fudge but developing on more or less the same kinds of grainy, mashy aromas. Quite some breadcrumb, beer… Gets then quite flowery

(lily from the valley, buttercups). Also notes of hot praline and honey. I like it better even if it hasn’t got such a bold personality. Mouth: very similar now but a little creamier, with more dried fruits, jam, vanilla crème, cake… Apple pie topped with vanilla ice cream and a little caramel. Certainly rounder than its younger sibling, maybe more polished. Really pleasant.

Awards

Price $39-55

Bunnahabhain (pronounced Boon-a-havn and meaning river mouth in Gaelic) is one of the lesser-known Islay distilleries, but its quiet coastal location produces some very nice bottlings. Since 1881 this gentle malt has been produced using pure Margdale spring water and lightly peated barley.

We’ll be tasting the Bunnahabhain 12-year old, 40%ABV. Also in their line of distillery bottlings is an 18-year old and a 25-year old. The two older drams are predominantly sherry cask aged with the 12 also including some sherry aging but predominantly ex-bourbon.

Since 2003, this distillery has been owned by Burn Stewart Distillers Ltd. who acquired Bunnahabhain along with the blend they produce, Black Bottle. Black Bottle includes the Islay single malts: Ardbeg, Bruichladdich, Bunnahabhain, Bowmore, Caol Isla, Lagavullin, and Laphroaig along with grain whisky. Burn Stewart Distillers Ltd. also own single malts, Deanston, Tobermory and Ledaig.

Reviews:

Michael Jackson of Whisky Magazine rates it a 7 1/2

Nose: Remarkably fresh, sweet, sea-air and perfume.

Palate: Gentle, clean, nutty-malty sweetness.

Finish: Herbal. Sage?

Comment: Appetizing and remarkably refreshing.

Jim Murray rates the 12 an 89.

Of the nose: Very sharp malt, almost nose pinching with a distinctly salty, softly

sherried bite.

Of the palate: Tangy fruit, then a wave of salted oak and crisp barley. Busy and bracing and teasingly sweet in places. (This is a description of a new bottling in the 2008 Whisky Bible and so may not match what we are tasting.)

John Hansel of Malt Advocate rates it an 87. Vanilla fudge, barley grist, fresh sea spray, berries, and nuts all integrated nicely. A gentle, comforting dram that accommodates many moods and situations.

Serge of the Malt Maniacs gives it a three out of five stars and and 82 points. Colour: amber. Nose: quite winey at first. Lots of liquorice stick, a little sour. Cooked wine, wet leaves, humus. Cooked sour cream. Hints of balsamic vinegar, soy sauce, ham. Quite unusual, much less rounded and sweet that the latest batches I had. Whiffs of smoke, parsley. The smoke gets stronger with time. Mouth: nice, balanced attack, quite smoky. Again, not as ‘gentle’ as expected. A little winey and slightly woody. Malty. Roasted peanuts, with a pinch of salt on the tongue. Hints of pepper. Rather long finish, on cooked fruits and soft tannins. Wow, this one’s [2004 tasting] got more body than its previous versions, it appears.

Awards:

Bunnahabhain 25 year old Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky

Gold Medal (Best in Class)

2008 International Wine and Spirit Competition

2007 International Wine and Spirit Competition

Bunnahabhain 12 year old Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky

Silver Medal

Price $39-$54

Bruichladdich is, to borrow a phrase describing Senator John McCain, a maverick. Bucking the trend in the industry towards modernization, computerization and reducing workforces in the distilling process, Bruichladdich has increased the number of workers and taken to aging, distilling and bottling on site, as well as running a cooperage for cask management, as was done in the old days. Most of its barley is malted at the Port Ellen Maltings, where at least part of the barley for all Islay distilleries is malted.

Jim McEwan is the maverick master distiller behind the renaissance of this tiny distillery. He has been a pioneer at creating multiple peating, casking and aging combinations as well as ACEing, or final aging in unusual barrels to create very outstanding drams.

Bruichladdich (‘Brook-Laddie’) is a Gaelic reference to the ‘raised beach’ upon which the distillery is sited, on Islay’s wild, west coast. Built in 1881 by William Harvey and his brothers, it was closed down in 1994 as “surplus to requirements”.

On December 19, 2000 it was acquired by a small group of private investors led by Mark Reynier. Following extensive renovation, the distillery recommenced distilling at 8:23 on the May 29, 2001. Bruichladdich, is now a private Scottish company operated, managed and directed on Islay.

500,000 litres are distilled annually from 100% Scottish barley – increasingly organic and Islay grown – from different farms (terroirs), varieties and peating levels.

Matured beside the Atlantic, the whisky is bottled in Islay’s only bottling hall - 100% naturally - free from chill-filtration, coloring, and homogenization. Islay water, filtered through the oldest rocks in the whisky world, is used to reduce from cask to bottling strength of 46%. Inspired by both the wine and whisky worlds, pioneering whiskies are designed by Master Distiller Jim McEwan. Bruichladdich is known as The Sophisticated Islay. Owing to the unusually tall, narrow-necked stills, these single malts are subtle yet compelling, fresh and ‘un-medicinal’. As the old French proverb says: “it is in old pans that one does the best cooking”.

Tonight we taste a highly-rated Bruichladdich XVII, 46%ABV, one of several dozen single malts produced under the Bruichladdich name. They also distill PC6 (a young Port Charlotte) and Octomore, not yet on the market and others. The “house style” begins with their 10-yr old unpeated malt, which they call, “The Velvet Fist in the Islay Glove”. They break their offerings into these groups: Mood Malts, Multi Vintage Malts, Single Vintage Malts and Specials such as their Links series, Redder Still series and Legacy series.

The XVII falls under the Mood Malts, which they describe as, “Whisky created to suit your mood or the time of day. Bruichladdich for sharing – and for keeping to yourself. The Twelve is the perfect Aperitif for when your neighbor calls around on Saturday lunchtime. The Fifteen, a mellower, Contemplative, any-time-of day dram, ideal for Sunday afternoon’s TV big match. The Eighteen, being more profound, is just the ticket as a Digestif for lingering over after dinner. The Twenty ideal as a Night Cap, for that end-of-the-day, quiet moment.”

Reviews:

Jim Murray rates the XVII a 94. Of the nose: Gentle citrus-led fruit caresses the nose; soft malt counters the spice.

Of the palate: the mild malt offers both a sharp barley thrust and a much softer gristy sweetness.

Of the finish: the mouthwatering richness continues to the very end with some spices suggesting oak but the malt remaining in control.

Whisky Magazine gives this a Silver Recommendation.

Michael Jackson of Whisky Magazine gives it an 8 1/4

Nose: A rock pool by the shore.

Palate: Soft, clean, sweet, becoming sandy, salty and spicy. Huge flavour development. Beautifully structured.

Finish: Lemon zest. Fresh limes. Lively. Irrepressible.

Comment: I shall try this in a Caipirinha, with a CD of Annie Ross at her peak.

Dave Broom of Whisky Magazine also gives it an 8 1/4

Nose: Gentle and soft. Sweet oak, flowers, vanilla, nutmeg, dried apple, apricot. Water brings out more toasty notes, hazelnut and milk chocolate.

Palate: Rounded and creamy, with a subtle interplay between vanilla-like oak, macaroon bars, nut

and fruit.

Finish: Fresh and crisp.

Comment: What is it about Islay whiskies in their mid-teens? A masterclass in subtlety.

Serge of Malt Maniacs gives it an 86 (no tasting notes)

Awards: 2003 International Wine And Spirits Awards-Silver

Price $110-$120

A lady goes to the bar on a cruise ship and orders a Scotch with two

drops of water. As the bartender gives her the drink she says, “I’m

on this cruise to celebrate my 80th birthday and it’s today.”

The bartender says “Well, since it’s your birthday, I’ll buy you a

drink. In fact, this one is on me.” As the lady finishes her drink,

the lady to her right says, “I would like to buy you a drink, too.”

The old lady says, “Thank you. Bartender, I want a Scotch with two

drops of water.” “Coming up,” says the bartender. As she finishes

that drink, the man to her left says, “I would like to buy you one,

too.”

The old lady says, “Thank you. Bartender, I want another Scotch with

two drops of water.” “Coming right up,” the bartender says. As he

gives her the drink, he says, “Ma’am, I’m dying of curiosity. Why

the Scotch with only two drops of water?”

The old lady replies, “Sonny, when you’re my age, you’ve learned how

to hold your liquor. Water, however, is a whole other issue.

Isle of Arran 10, 43% ABV natural color, non-chill filtered

Bunnahabhain 12, 40%ABV

Bruichladdich XVII, 46%ABV natural color, non-chill filtered

Eleventh Tasting - Arran, Bunnahabhain, Bruichladdich

Thursday, October 9, 2008

October 9, 2008 meeting wrap up

Our 11th meeting was at the Dan and Mary’s, hosted by Dan and was attended by Pat, Judi, Besim, John, Dan, Mary, Nancy and myself. The first full house I think we’ve had for quite a while. We tasted The “Mild Isle” malts: Isle of Arran 10, 43% ABV natural color, non-chill filtered; Bunnahabhain 12, 40%ABV; Bruichladdich XVII, 46%ABV natural color, non-chill filtered, in that order. We also had a bonus tasting of Lagavulin Distiller’s Edition, Distilled 1991, Bottled 2007, 43% ABV finished in Pedro Ximenez sherry casks, courtesy of Nancy and Arran Premier Cru Bourgogne, 56.5%ABV, single cask, casks strength, courtesy of Mary. An outstanding way to end the evening.

I thought it would be hard to beat our last meeting for great flavor, but the combination of our opening salvo of mild isles followed by the knock-your-socks-off finishing punch was terrific. We started the evening with a video of the Arran Distillery, which also gave quite a travelogue of the island beauty.

The Arran had a nice malty, spicy, nutty nose and was a bit alcohol-hot on the palate but opened up and balanced nicely with a touch of water to have a caramel, vanilla and cereal-malty flavor. I’d give it an 80-85.

The Bunnahabhain also had a spicy nose, along with low levels of caramel and vanilla. On the palate, it was very nicely balanced, needing no water to smooth it out. It also had a sweet aspect to the palate, slightly on the sherry side. Compared to the unpeated Arran, this seemed to have a slight peatiness on the palate, but compared to most Islays, it’s a pussycat. Originally I rated this a 75-80, but when I came back to it later it seemed more robust and I upped my rating to 80-85.

The Bruichladdich XVII, I had never tasted before. I always expect a good dram from Bruichladdich, but admit a greater love of their smoky versions such as Yellow Submarine and 3D3 than their less peated versions. The nose was very fruity, apricot we decided, after looking at Dave Broom’s tasting notes. To me it had the sense of a Speysider with a very floral aspect to it. On the palate there was spiciness at a low level as well as woodiness. Overall it had a very nice balance and was quite creamy with and without a touch of water. My rating: 85-90

The Lagavulin had an enormous smokiness on the nose along with the strong sherry aroma. On the palate it was peaty, sweet, salty-bacon and oily in a very complex combination. I did not add water. Being a sucker for peat and sherry I had to give this a 90-95.

Mary brought out her Arran Premier Cru Bourgogne so we could compare it to the 10 yr old. Well, I like the 10, but no comparison can be made. They are so different.

This is finished for a period of 6 months in French oak casks previously used to mature Premier Cru Vosne Romanée red wine from the house of Domaine Guyon. It is no longer available.

The Distiller's Tasting Notes: Aroma: The smooth warm sweetness of red berries and citrus, with a hint of simmering marmalade.

Palate: Both warming and sweet, the silky fruitiness of this whisky gives way to a dry spiciness with strong hints of black pepper and citrus.

Finish: Smooth and dry, with long, lingering warmth, leaving hints of spice.

To me it seemed to have a Sherry-like sweetness, although that is not the type of cask it is finished in, but we don’t know what casks it was aged in prior to the finish. It was very caramelly and creamy with a coating viscousness. A touch of water helped tame its power. It was amazing and I’d give it a 90-95.

Tried to show a rough version of a BUMS web site, but due to technical difficulties was unable to demo. However, we decided a site would be nice and I will further investigate the costs and technical side before a final commitment.

Thanks to all for attending. A special tip o’ the Quaich to Nancy and Mary for providing our bonus drams.

Look forward to our next dramming. Pat, you are up next and need to come up with a Thursday in January for us to once again sing the praises of Uisgebaugh, pronounced ish'ka'ba'ha (the original Gaelic, which became simplified to Whisky, meaning water

of life).

Slainte! -Mark

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