Seventh Tasting
For this month’s tasting, the theme is Sherry. All the single malts in this group were aged either exclusively or predominantly in Oak casks that previously held Sherry. There are many varieties of Sherry, so depending on what variety previously occupied the cask one can get great variations in color and flavor even before we get to whether the cask was a first refill or a lesser cask plus the variable of time spent in the cask. Some of the more famous Sherry-aged single malts are The Macallan, (before the fine oak series was introduced because they couldn’t get enough Sherry casks to exclusively age in Sherry), Balmenach, Dailuaine, Dalmore, Glendronach, Mortlach, Royal Lochnagar, Glenfarclas, Aberlour and others.
Our star whisky is Yamazaki 18 yr old, 43%ABV a single malt from Japan. Since it was not made in Scotland it is not technically a “Scotch,” but among many single malt drinkers it is very highly regarded; so much so, that the prestigious Scotch Malt Whisky Society has done private bottlings of Yamazaki.
In 1923, Shijiro Torii, the founder of Suntory Limited and the father of Japanese whisky, built Japan’s first malt whisky distillery in Oyamazaki, Japan, on the outskirts of Kyoto. Five years later Suntory Whisky Sirofuda (White Label), the first single malt whisky made in Japan, was sold.
Suntory also owns Glen Garioch, Auchentoshan, and Bowmore in Scotland and in a partnership with Highland Distillers, a Scottish group, owns The Macallan. Yamazaki is the most popular single malt whisky in Japan. Like single malt whisky of Scottish origin, it is made in pot stills in the same process as used in Scotland, but using Japanese water and barley. (I think peat is used in drying the malted barley, but I am not sure.)
Suntory Limited is a Japanese brewing and distilling company, established in 1899, and is one of the oldest companies in the distribution of alcoholic beverages in Japan.
The extensive research facilities at Yamazaki have spawned a variety of changes at the distillery over the years, resulting in the fact that the distillery currently has six very different stills, uses various yeasts, heating and maturing methods. The benefit is that Yamazaki has the ability to make a variety of styles for its blended whiskies and single malts.
In 2003, YAMAZAKI 12 Years captured a Gold Award at the International Spirits Challenge (ISC), one of the world’s most authoritative international liquor competitions. A year later in 2004, HIBIKI 30 Years (a premium blend) won the Trophy, the highest award in the Challenge. And in 2005, YAMAZAKI 18 Years won a Double Gold medal at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition (SWSC).
Suntory also has exclusive Japanese distribution rights for: Ballantines, Jack Daniel’s, Bowmore, Macallan, Glenfiddich, and other non-whisky spirits.
Serge of the Malt Maniacs says, “Yamazaki 18 yo (43%, OB) This one was matured in sherry casks. The nose is very woody, in a nice way, with some varnish, turpentine. A beautiful balance. Some very soft tannins… Extremely oaky but masterfully crafted. The mouth is superbly balanced, with lots of orange juice and spices. Creamy yet nervous, with all sorts of fruit syrups and jams. Besides, the finish is very long. I loved this one: 90 points.”
Murray gives most Yamazaki bottlings marks in the high 80s and 90s, but rates the particular bottle he tasted as being sulphury and therefore a 78.
Our second Sherry-finished single malt is The Dalmore 12 yr old, 43%ABV.
Established in 1839 by Alexander Matheson, Dalmore Distillery sits on the banks of the Cromarty Firth (Bay) 
overlooking the rich and fertile Black Isle (actually a peninsula), the “big meadowland”, from which it takes its name. The distillery was bought by the Mackenzie family in 1886, and the ‘twelve pointer stag’ was introduced from their clan crest - a symbol that still adorns the bottle. Pure, clean water taken from the local River Alness is used to create this dram of the Highlands, The Dalmore.
During the WWI the Dalmore warehouses were requisitioned to manufacture mines and all the whisky was moved with not a single barrel missing when returned. Some of the old 
stills have survived and are still in use today with their unusual outline, with flat tops and cooling
system made of a water jacket on the outside of the still necks which encourages reflux, leading to a lighter spirit. About 85% of the whisky produced is aged in bourbon casks, the rest in sweet olorosso (usually dark and nutty sherry) and amontillado (an expensive variety of sherry that is darker than fino but lighter than olorosso), but is all married in sherry butts (source: Michael Jackson, MWC, 4th ed.)
For over 160 years, the distillery has produced malts of great distinction. Some 100,000 casks can be found on site with the oldest one from the 1939 distillation.
Dalmore, along with Isle of Jura, Fettercairn single malts and Whtye & Mackay blends, is owned by Whyte and Mackay, which were recently purchased by United Spirits Limited (USL). Colorful Indian billionaire, Vijay Mallya, owner of USL, also owns an airline and is dubbed “the Richard Branson of India”. With the recent up tick in Indian consumption of premium Scotch, this purchase has made some in the industry nervous that output will be diverted to India
In addition to the twelve year old, there is a “Black Isle” 12 year old that is more heavily sherried, and distillery bottlings at 21 year old, a non-vintage Cigar Malt, a 28 year old Dalmore Gonzalez Byass Sherry Cask Finish called The Stillman’s Dram. (They used to make a 30-year old Stillman’s Dram, which Mary and I tasted several years ago, which was quite excellent, but not aged in Gonzalez Byass Sherry Casks.) There are also VERY occasional bottlings of a 50 year old and a 62 year old.
Dalmore 12 is rated 91 by Murray who describes the nose as, “big, fruity, firm, a threat of smoke, weighty,” and the palate as, “well-muscled malt surge followed by clean fruity tones, immaculate mouth-presence and bitter-sweet balance.” He concludes, “Simply one of the great Highland malt whiskies at just about the perfect age.”
Jackson gives it a 79 describing the nose as, “Arousing, with rum butter, malt loaf and soda bread.” His description of the palate, “Gradual flavour development. Malty sweetness, orange jellybeans, spiciness (anise?), perfuminess, heather, light peat. Even a faint salty tang of the sea.”
Serge, of Malt Maniacs gives these tasting notes, “Nose: very smooth and rounded. Sweet sherry, very syrupy. Hints of dust, dried orange, milk chocolate. Mouth: very smooth, sweet and enjoyable. A little sugarish. Herbal tea, sherry, Mirabelle jam. Nice finish on cooked apricot. So sweet, even a little ‘decadent’. 80 points.”
David Wishart puts Dalmore in his Cluster A (Full-Bodied, Medium-Sweet, Pronounced Sherry with Fruity, Spicy, Malty Notes and Nutty, Smoky Hints): Balmenach, Dailuaine, Dalmore, Glendronach, Macallan, Mortlach, Royal Lochnagar.
Awards:
Dalmore
12 YEAR OLD
Gold Medal
San Francisco World Spirits Competition
2007
Gold Medal
San Francisco World Spirits Competition
2007 Black Isle
Silver Medal
San Francisco World Spirits Competition
2006
Silver Medal
Beverage Testing Institute, International Review of Spirits
2005
Silver Medal
San Francisco World Spirits Competition
2005
Gold Medal
San Francisco World Spirits Competition
2004
Gold Medal
San Francisco World Spirits Competition
2003
Gold Medal
International Wine and Spirits Competition
2001
21 YEAR OLD
Double Gold Medal
San Francisco World Spirits Competition
2007
Silver Medal
San Francisco World Spirits Competition
2006
Platinum Medal
Beverage Testing Institute, International Review of Spirits
2005
Double Gold Medal
San Francisco World Spirits Competition
2005
Best of Show
San Francisco World Spirits Competition
2003
Double Gold "Best Highland Single Malt Scotch"
San Francisco World Spirits Competition
2003
Gold Medal & Trophy Winner
International Wine & Spirits Competition
2001
STILLMAN'S DRAM
Silver Medal
San Francisco World Spirits Competition
2006
Gold Medal
Beverage Testing Institute, International Review of Spirits
2005
Double Gold Medal
San Francisco World Spirits Competition
2005
Silver Medal
San Francisco World Spirits Competition
2004
Silver Medal
International Wine and Spirits Competition
2001
Gold Medal
International Wine and Spirits Competition
2000
CIGAR MALT
Silver Medal
San Francisco World Spirits Competition
2007
Bronze Medal
San Francisco World Spirits Competition
2006
Gold Medal & Best Buy
Beverage Testing Institute, International Review of Spirits
2005
Bronze Medal
San Francisco World Spirits Competition
2005
Gold Medal
San Francisco World Sprits Competition
2004
“#1 Single Malt Whiskey to Pair with a Cuban Cigar”
Havana Cigar Festival
2003
Our final Sherry-influenced single malt is, Aberlour A’bunadh, No Age Statement, Batch 16, 59.8%ABV, non-chill filtered, cask strength. It is aged exclusively in Spanish Olorosso Sherry Butts.
A’bunadh is Gaelic for “of the origin”, and Aberlour means “mouth of the Lour” (Lour itself meaning “the chattering burn” or stream), and pronounced, a-boon-arh and aberLOUR, respectively. A’bunadh is vatted from various years of the spirit with some less than 10 years old to more than 15 years old using second-fill dry olorosso casks.
The Aberlour Distillery is at the heart of Speyside within the Highlands, in the country’s premier whisky-making region.
No fewer than half of Scotland’s malt distilleries are located in Speyside, which is renowned for producing whiskies of subtle depth and elegance.
Situated at the junction of the rivers Lour and Spey, the distillery is surrounded by glorious scenery, dominated by the rugged peaks of Ben Rinnes a short distance away. Pure spring water for making the whisky is drawn from the Lour, and the maturing spirit in the warehouse beneficially inhales the moist Speyside air.
The distillery was founded in 1879 by James Fleming, who shrewdly built it on the site of St Drostan’s Well, thus securing forever this priceless source of pure spring water. Self-effacing and modest, he lived by his family motto (bestowed on it by Robert the Bruce) of “Let the Deed Show,” a sentiment appropriately displayed on every bottle of Aberlour.
Aberlour, is owned by Chivas Brothers, which in turn is owned by Pernod Ricard Ltd, which also owns these single malts: The Glenlivet, Glendronach, Strathisla, Longmorn, Scapa and Tormore. They also own these blends: Ballantine’s, Chivas, Royal Salute, Clan Campbell, Something Special, Passport, 100 Pipers, Imperial and Long John as well as many other spirits products. Chivas Brothers’ latest accomplishments include a Silver Medal for A’bunadh and a Distinction for The Glenlivet 18 YO from the Scottish Field Whisky Challenge. At Whisky Magazines’ World Whiskies Awards the company picked up a medal for Aberlour 12 YO, The Glenlivet French Oak Reserve 15 YO and Royal Salute The Hundred Cask.
Most of the Aberlour range is aged separately in ex-bourbon casks and ex-Sherry casks and then “married” in Sherry casks. The range includes a 10 year old, a 15-year old Sherry finish, a 12-year old Sherry matured, a 15-year old double cask matured, and a 1990 vintage with the Sherry influence reduced.
Jackson rates an un-numbered batch of A’bunadh at 86, but it should be mentioned that each batch is a unique vatting of various casks and so would be distinct from other batches. Of the batch he rates he says, “Nose: sherry, mint, pralines. Luxurious, powerful. Body: Full, creamy, textured, layered. Palate: Rich, luxurious and creamy with a hint of mint and cherries behind.”
Murray rates Batch 16 (what we are drinking) at 87. He complains that there is a slight sulphur aroma to the nose, but goes on to say, “Fortunately, the blinding brilliance of some of the other sherry butts have helped limit the damage.” Of its palate he says, “The intense kumquat/orange tang to the sherry-trifle grape is pure joy and helps take the mind off the furry interference of that single sulphur cask.”
The Malt Maniacs in their 2007 awards just gave Aberlour A'bunadh ‘Batch #20’ (60,5%, OB) a Silver Medal
Serge of Malt Maniacs has this to say, “Aberlour A’bunadh Batch #16 (59.6%, OB, 2005) Colour: amber. Nose: just as hot and caramelly but much less vinous/sour [he’s comparing it to Batch 13]. Cleaner, with more coffee, toffee, praline etc. Maybe less extravagant but the sherry’s better integrated. Kind of smokiness, faint hints of soy sauce, coal… More wood as well (nice tannins). With water: superb development, with even more oak (a great one) and a slight meatiness that gives it more complexity. Hints of violets like in the Samaroli. Mouth (neat): again it’s much better than batch #13. Maybe a little hotter but much cleaner, developing mostly on the trio coffee/toffee/raisins. Classic, I’d say. With water: develops on lots of nuts, caramel, a little vanilla fudge, cloves, rum… Perfect. Finish: long, better balanced than batch #13, nutty and caramelly.
Very good this time! Incredible how different these two batches were. 88 points.”
At the 2007 Wine and Spirit Awards A’bunadh a won best in class Silver
At the 2007 San Francisco World Spirits competition a Double Gold Medal was won for Aberlour 16 Year Old, a Silver Medal for Aberlour A'bunadh and a Gold Medal for Aberlour 12 Year Old.
Aberlour won gold medals at the 2006 International Spirits Challenge (ISC) for both its 10YO single malt and 12YO Double Cask Matured, mirroring its success in last year’s competition. Aberlour 10 Year Old also won gold at the International Wine and Spirits Competition (IWSC) alongside its 16 Year Old Double Cask Matured.
“Giving money and power to government is like giving whiskey and car keys to teenage boys.”P. J. O'Rourke, 1947 -
Aberlour A’bunadh No Age Statement, Batch 16 (59.6%ABV) non-chill filtered cask strength
Dalmore 12-year old (43% ABV)
Yamazaki 18-year old (40% ABV)
Seventh Tasting - Aberlour A’Bunadh, Dalmore, Yamazaki
Thursday, January 17, 2008
January 17th, 2008 meeting wrap up
Our 7th meeting (and the first of the new year) at Mary and Dan Sullivan’s house, was attended by Mary, Dan, John, Pat, Judi, Michelle and Myself. Besim was missing in action. We tasted a Dalmore 12-year old (43%ABV), a Yamazaki 18-year old (40% ABV), our star whisky, and a cask strength Aberlour A’bunadh Batch 16 non-chill filtered bottling (59.6%ABV), in that order.
These are all whiskies with a strong Sherry presence, aged exclusively in Sherry casks in the case of the A’Bunadh, with the other two partially aged in Sherry. We discussed the influence of the quality of the cask as well as how many times it has been refilled, on the final product.
The Dalmore is aged about 85% in bourbon casks with the remaining 15% in Sherry casks.
The whisky is married in sherry butts before botttling. The Dalmore got good marks for sweetness, fruitiness, maltiness and spiciness. Very good overall.
To me the surprise of the night was the Yamazaki. It had a very nice deep burnished leather color but was not as deeply flavored in sweetness, fruitness or maltiness, which I had expected from what
I had read about this dram. It had a very bourbony nose and somewhat of a creamy, cinnamony mouth-feel. This one felt more like and aperitif in its lightness.
The outstanding dram of the evening was the A’bunadh. Definitely a very heavy sherried nose and palate with a woody, leathery, nutty aroma tossed in there too.
Hope you all enjoyed our gathering. Look forward to our next dram-fest!
Copyright 2010 Mark Friedman
