Our first limited Single Malt bottling, Imperial, comes from a distillery whose cask strength Speyside output is sought by malt lovers thirsting for this underrated and rare dram. Bottled in 1990, this 15 year old is distilled at 60.4% alcohol by volume. Tasting notes from Michael Jackson (Not THAT Michael Jackson), a Scotch-tasting expert, describe a same age bottling as having a “lemon meringue/key lime pie nose... slightly floury, dusty...some cellar quality.” 

He describes the palate as “some sweet lemon, becoming quite intense, then drying” and gives the Scotch an overall score of 71.  Jim Murray, another whisky tasting pro describes this Scotch as, “very good example of clean, light, mouthwatering Speyside blending malt. Delicious.” He rates the Imperial at 82.

The Imperial distillery, built in 1897 by Thomas MacKenzie, was named to honor the 60th anniversary of Queen Victoria. The distillery is next to the small village of Aberlour and is in a hollow next to the banks of the River Spey. It has a checkered history of openings and closings and was most recently reopened in 1989 and is still operational. Imperial is rarely bottled as a single malt and most of its output is intended for blends such as Teachers, Long John, Ballantine’s and Old Smuggler. 

Our non-chill filtered and uncolored bottling is from cask #11968 and bottled by Lorne Mackillop* and is described as having, “Bright green pine color with very slow regular legs. The aromas are enticing with wood, malt, sea salt and a hint of berries. Very full and rich with loads of luscious malt throughout; very-active palate with lots of complexity to keep your mind off the alcohol level. Just a drop of water brings out the sea salt element and softens things. It leaves your mouth with dry sandalwood and Fino sherry.”

*Lorne Mackillop is the heir to the chief of the Mackillop Clan, which was all but wiped out by the English in the aftermath of the battle of Culloden in 1745 during the Jabobite Rebellion. Two teenage boys survived the massacre, ensuring the continuation of the Mackillop Clan. For many centuries earlier, the Mackillops were hereditary captains of the personal guard to the Kings of Scotland, and consequently the family motto is 'Non Dormit Qui Custodit' (He Who Guards Does Not Sleep).

"Mackillop's Choice" is a range of specially selected single malt scotch whiskies drawn from individual casks. The whisky is only available through specialist retail and connoisseur outlets, where the whisky lover expects to find something rather more rare and more exclusive.

After seven years' extensive training in wines and spirits, Lorne Mackillop became a member of the Institute of Masters of Wine in London in 1984, and, at that time, was the youngest person to be accepted as a Master of Wine. The Institute presides over the most demanding examinations in wines and spirits in the world and, since its foundation in 1953, only a few members worldwide have passed these examinations and been considered worthy of this prestigious qualification. His comprehensive knowledge of whisky is reflected in the quality of "Mackillop's Choice".

Tonight we will taste all Speyside whiskies. The Speyside region is a loosely designated area within the Highland area of Scotland near the Spey River. Although I believe no distillery actually uses the Spey’s water for bottling,

all area distilleries draw water from streams or springs that feed into the Spey and it is a river that has excellent trout fishing.

The Mannochmore we taste this evening is a 13-year old bottled at cask strength of 56% and is not chill filtered or colored. It was matured in S. African Sherry Butt (type of cask) No. 16596. Signatory Vintage Scotch Whisky Co., an independent bottler, selected bottle 371 of 578.

The Mannochmore distillery was established recently (compared to most) in 1971-72, primarily to provide whisky for some of the Haig blends such as Pinch (called Dimple in the UK). A “MOR” is a Gaelic term for hill, and water from the Mannoch hills is used to distill this single malt; thus the name Mannochmore. At one time a whisky called Loch Dhu (meaning black lake) was made here and marketed as the “Black Whisky”. This whisky was aged in a barrel charred with caramel and took on a very dark color, but it was not well received and was discontinued, I believe.

 

Its neighboring distillery is Glenlossie, and both are owned by United Distillers & Vintners (Diageo).  Mannochmore was closed in 1995, probably due to excess capacity in the Diageo whisky line, so this is a rare bottling.  Glenlossie and Mannochmore are similar malts, described by Scotch expert, Michael Jackson as having a fresh and very flowery nose and its palate as, “becoming light and fruity. Clean. Dry.” He rates it at 72, although he tasted a 12-year old.

Jim Murray rates Mannochmore at 84, and states that it has a sweet malt and bitter oak flavor.

Our third whisky is Glenfarclas 12-yr. old bottled at 43%. Glenfarclas is made by one the few remaining family-owned distilleries.  It is distilled by the 6th generation of the J & G Grant family, not to be confused with William Grant and sons, one of the other family distillers that make Glenfiddich and Balvenie. Glenfarclas (in gaelic, valley of the green grass) is about a mile from the Spey and its water source lies behind it in the water that runs off of Ben Rhinnes, a small mountain. The distillery opened in 1836 and was acquired by the Grants in 1865.  This 12-year old (they also produce a 10, 15,17, 21 and 25-year old) “has a beautiful bronze color, a dry, quick big nose and palate with plenty of flavor with notes of peat,” says Michael Jackson. His rating, 87. This whisky is aged in 100% used sherry casks. Jim Murray rates Glenfarclas 12 year old at 90, concluding that it is “unlikely Speyside offers a much better 12-year old.” 

According to the Glenfarclas website, “GLENFARCLAS is as natural and perfect as the day it leaves its Highland home - its flavour captured and suspended in time until the delightful moment of truth when the cork is removed and that Autumn sun is released”.

“There are two things a Highlander likes naked, and one of them is malt whisky.” (Scottish proverb.)

1990 Imperial 15-year old single malt, single cask 60.4%ABV, non-chill filtered and

uncolored bottling from cask #11968

Mannochmore 13-year old single malt, single cask, cask strength, 56%ABV

Glenfarclas 12-year old single malt, 43%ABV