To Dream of Whisky

To Dream of Whisky

The Belgian Owl Whisky

Every Scotch aficionado has had “the dream,” I know I have…what if you could make your own whisky? That would be an amazing, awesome, fantastic adventure. But how would you pursue this dream? How would you actually make a drinkable, even award wining single malt without having a distillery? Well you’d have to start small, that’s for sure. You’d need some training. You’d want to use what was at hand without investing a ton of money and you’d want to do it right. Well that’s what Etienne Bouillon of Belgium did…he made his dream of whisky distilling come true.

After three years of training at the The Institut Meurice, an institute of brewing and distilling on the campus of the CERIA (Centre d'Enseignement et de Recherche des Industries Alimentaires) et Chimiques in Brussels, Etienne had a once in a lifetime opportunity land in his lap.

In 1999 a full-page ad in Belgian newspapers announced the creation and sale of the first Belgian whisky; the first 500 phone calls to a number given in the advertisement would win a free bottle! 30,000 calls were recorded in 72 hours! There was just one small problem… no Belgian whisky and no Belgian Whisky Distillery, at least not one that was more than just a dream. The ad had been a hoax organized by two advertising agencies to prove the impact of communicating in the daily press.

Well the advertising worked, but what about the whisky? Etienne had been dreaming about a Belgian Whisky for years and now he had proof that there really was an interest in such a project and product.

Etienne had recently graduated from CERIA in the liqueur section and had perfected his skills in the art and science of distillation, specializing in distillation of grain and fruit, winning two awards:

The Gold Medal at the Brussels “Salon des Arts Ménagers” in 1997 for his pure malt distillate made exclusively from malted barley and the New Products Award at the Charleroi “Salon des Arts Ménagers” in 1998 with his Pomme d’Etienne, a combination of apple juice and his eau-de-vie.

Back in 1994 Etienne had acquired a first, and then a second, handmade, century-old still; one of these stills was used by an authentic “bouilleur de cru”, which translates to “itinerant distiller.” Each of these stills had a capacity of 500 liters. Then a liqueur table and a fermentation tank were added for a capacity of up to 20,000 liters of wort. Talk about starting small, the smallest stills in Scotland being used today at Edradour are 90,000 liters (capacity of distilling in terms of LPA per year).

So he had some of the equipment and he knew there was a demand.

Next came the single-minded determination to design a plan for distilling aging and marketing the first Belgian Whisky in history. Part of his goal was to use native materials: barley and water, to make it a truly Belgian product. Eventually he also wanted to have under his control the cultivation and malting of the barley. In this way he felt he could make top quality his goal and be able to have control over all facets of the distilling operation.

Etienne patiently worked on this project for three years and then in 2003 all his planning and work came to fruition. With a loan financing two thirds of the first batch and a marketing plan in hand and the help of his friend, Alain, he was ready to put his technical expertise and his years of training to the test.

In these early days he had to source his malted barley, find casks, locate a facility to house his distilling operation and age his whisky, set up distribution channels and oh, by the way, make a single malt whisky that he hoped would be up to his standards after it aged for three years. Easy.

Contacts were made in France and especially in England and Scotland to get advice, particularly on the casks to use. Jim Murray, a very influential name in whisky in England, had taken an interest in the project and promised to include it in his Whisky Bible. Etienne eventually also spent some time with Jim McEwan, well-known Islay Master Distiller at Bruichladdich, which helped him formulate his concept of what the first Belgian Whisky should embody.

As Etienne and Alain developed their project, it was at first called PUR.E Malt made at the PUR.E Distillerie. In 2004, with the help of Luc Foubert, the project was fully financed. 2004 also brought recognition in many forms: Belgian Pure Malt received a Second Place Award at the Coqs de Cristal contest at the Libramont Fair in July; Etienne and Alain vied for the Crescendo New Business Award organized by the “Initiatives” trade fair in Liege: on October 20, 2004, Etienne Bouillon presented the project and won the Second Place Prize awarded by the public.

But October 2004 really stood out as the start up of the first Belgian Whisky – on October 17, 2004 the PUR.E Distillerie began production and the following day, on October 18, 2004, the “act of authenticity” of the first cask of Belgian Whisky was signed by three witnesses, including Luc Foubert, before the Duties and Excise Department. And on October 24, 2004, Etienne Bouillon recorded the first order from a private party for “The Belgian Whisky,” later to be known as the The Belgian Owl Whisky from the Owl Distillery.

Today there are three partners in The Belgian Owl Whisky business, Etienne Bouillon, Distilling; Christian Polis, Financing; and Pierre Roberti, Farming.

The distillery is ensconced in a beautiful old farm building in the barley-growing region of Hesbay, next to the field where they grow their own barley. They are producing 20,000 50 cl bottles of whisky per year at 46% ABV and hope to purchase new stills to increase production.

Etienne recently agreed to let me interrupt his busy days to interview him, via e-mail.

When you started out distilling did you have a particular flavor profile you were hoping to create?

“Yes, in fact at the beginning, I had three guidelines : barley raised in Belgium, barley malted with no peat, and aging in first fill bourbon casks.”

What do you see as the essential elements of experience and personality that have brought you to where you are now?

“I had the chance to meet Jim McEwan from the Bruichladdich Distillery who proposed to share his experience in the world of Malt Whisky, after I met him during a whisky festival. He tasted my new make and enjoyed the fact that I was starting my malt whisky adventure with the culture of the barley in Belgium (as the rest of the process). He also enjoyed the Belgian name of our Single Malt Whisky (‘The Belgian Owl’).

“As to what matters with my personality, I am perseverant, which is more than recommended when you start to create your dream.”

In your meetings with the public are there any common misconceptions that you encounter on your role at the distillery?

“Usually, everyone understands quite well the role of the distiller as far as we speak of distillation. But to create a Single Malt Whisky, you create a philosophy that starts with the way and where you grow your barley. Every step in the creation of a Malt Whisky is the result of that philosophy and this is less well known.”

Can you describe what you do on a day-to-day basis?

“Day-to-Day is difficult as I am alone to work in the creation of ‘The Belgian Owl’. I also do paper work, (which is not my favorite topic, but I do it with heart) as I do all the steps of the creation and marketing of our single malt. So it can begin by some time for distilling, another day by filling casks, or doing a bottling as well as going to the farm to check on our barley and then back to the warehouse.”

Regarding the Alembic Pot stills from 1880’s that you use. What were the stills used for previous to your use? Cognac production? Do you plan on having stills built to your specification?

“Our two pot stills were made in Switzerland in 1880 and were used to distill mostly fruits. Actually we work as much as we can with those two excellent stills (500 liters of capacity each). We’ll see what the future holds but I think we’ll shortly be looking to have those 19th century stills replaced by two new stills as excellent as the originals.”

I read tasting notes in your literature on New Make, 12 months, 24 months and 36 months. Do you bottle at all those ages? Or were those notes just to give a perspective on how the flavors change as the whisky matures?

“I do bottling at different steps of the aging. In fact, I am very curious and I was very eager to discover the qualities of my new make or even after just a few months of aging. I thought that maybe I was not the only one to be interested to discover ‘what was going on during the aging time’. That’s the reason I empty some casks during their aging time to share my passion and my curiosity with some other amateurs.”

Are you using Heaven Hill barrels to age? Do you foresee using other barrels such as ex-sherry, port or other wine barrels?

”We use 100% Heaven Hill barrels to age. This is in order to give our customer one of the three guidelines I described above. In the future, if we have time, we’ll do some special finishing in order to see how our ‘The Belgian Owl’ reacts with some other wood.”

Can you describe your experience of working with Jim McEwan of Bruichladdich? What was the most important part of your distilling education?

“Working with Jim McEwan was like entering a complete dream world. He, and everyone at the Bruichladdich Distillery were so friendly and he has such an outstanding knowledge in the world of Malt Whisky that listening to his explanation is like entering into a magic world. There is not one part that is more important than another in the distilling advice that he gave me. The whole package was important.”

How does the cask that Jim Murray rated as the European Single Cask Whisky of the Year* for 2011 differ from your everyday bottlings?

“Every cask differs a little bit or more from the other. This cask had gained a level of marriage between the flavors (fruity and flowery) of the new spirit and the flavors (more spicy as vanilla, cannel, ginger, nuts, chocolate…) of the cask that you had all in one with an extreme ‘finesse’. I could describe it as a ‘powerfull lightness (finesse) full of so many tastes that you can discover more and more during the tasting’ and it seems as it will never end…”

*Jim Murray’s comments in 2011 Whisky Bible

European Single Cask Whisky of the Year

The Belgian Owl Single Malt Whisky Aged 44 Months 1st fill bourbon cask no. 4275966, bott Oct 09 db (95.5) n23.5 massive bourbon theme on the nose; liquorice and spiced honey blows hot and sweet; t23.5 near perfect weight on delivery. Those oils make the landing of a 74% abv whisky just about painless. But what works so well is the degree of sweetness: the muscovado sugars are balanced with just-so degrees of vanillas to ensure an improbable degree of balance and complexity to a whisky quite so enormous; f24.5 now goes into owly overdrive and benefits from the slightly wider than normal cut. Especially when the nougat-mocha notes kick in. Again the sugars remain in total sync and harmony and allow the barley the clearest of paths to make a late, juicy stand. Astonishingly beautiful... b23.5 this owl is hunting every taste bud you have. What a wonderful experience....and whatever species this may be, a Little Owl, it isn’t... 74.2%ABV

Can you describe your malting process? Is it the old-fashioned style of floor maltings?

“Our barley is malted for us in the old-fashioned floor malting process by the Malterie du Chateau. We do not use peat.”

How did you choose the barley that you would use for your whisky? Is it a barley that is unique to Belgium? Do you grow all the barley that you use in production?

“We took quite some time and made some tastings with Pierre (who is in charge of the growing of our barley). Pierre has a great experience in the culture of barley. We chose the one that we thought would fit the best for our soil and that would give the best possibilities to reveal the quality of our ground.”

What has been your biggest professional challenge so far?

“Sharing my philosophy of life in the application of the creation of a Single Malt Whisky that includes respect at each step.”

Who are some of your role models in the whisky world?

“Jim McEwan and the Bruichladdich Distillery are living models for me in the whisky world. They share the same values of respect and authenticity that I do.”

What are some of your favorite single malts besides your own?

“I love so many, that it’s difficult to make a choice. I know that with the Bruichladdich Distillery I’ll be happy for the day after my tasting.”

Are there goals for the The Belgian Owl distillery that you still have yet to reach?

“The Belgian Owl Distillery has begun with a diversification ‘valorisante’ of the agriculture in respect of the appellation ‘Single Malt Whisky’. We want to continue to include the respect for authenticity as we grow.”

Can you sum up your whisky making experience from conception to present day?

“It’s an experience that makes me wake up happy every day.”

Who could ask for more?

Honors for The Belgian Owl:

2010 Grand Gold Quality Award from the International Institute for Quality Selections for their three year old bottling and in 2011 for their four year old bottling

The ‘Mondial de Bruxelles’ has honored The Belgian Owl Distillery with two awards : One Silver for their new spirit in 2010 and in 2011, one Gold for their whisky aged 44 months

“European Single Cask of the Year” award in Jim Murray’s 2011 Whisky Bible for the Belgian Owl Whisky aged 44 months, 1st fill bourbon cask no. 4275966, bott Oct 09, rating it at 95.5

Dominic Roskrow at Malt Advocate magazine rate this bottling an 83

Belgian Owl 4 year old, cask 270910, 46%

Belgian whisky maker Etienne Bouillon has a strange production process, including maturation in modern, warm, and strip-lighted warehouses on an industrial estate, but he’s no slouch when it comes to whisky making, and he counts Bruichladdich’s Jim McEwan among his friends. This is melon and vanilla ice cream on the nose; banana, burnt rind, and a sprinkling of pepper on the palate. Youth reveals itself late, but this is dessert whisky at its best.

Where to find The Belgian Owl

Other media on Belgian Owl Distillery

http://www.whiskeywise.com/Belgian-whisky.html

http://www.flickr.com/photos/spiritsreview/sets/72157600337854534/

http://www.spiritsreview.com/adventures.htm

The Belgian Owl Legend

http://www.belgianwhisky.com/start.php?lang=en&rub=5

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ssJuHUvriIs&feature=player_embedded

http://whiskyforeveryone.blogspot.com/2011/01/have-just-tried-belgian-owl.html

http://www.whisky-distilleries.info/Bottles/The-Belgian-Owl_EN.shtml

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ssJuHUvriIs&feature=player_embedded

The Story of Etienne Bouillon and the First Belgian Single Malt Whisky

Wednesday, September 14, 2011

Partners in The Belgian Owl –

Christian Polis, Financing; Etienne Bouillon, Distilling;

and Pierre Roberti, Farming

Belgian Owl Whisky is slowly making its way into the US market and will soon be available at the Wine and Cheese Place in Clayton, MO and is available on the internet from Mission Liquor and Wines,Wally’s Wine and Spirits and Binny’s for about $89. In Europe you can find it at:

Broekmans Drankenshop, Wijnhandel van Zuylen and Whiskycorner.

Humble Beginnings for the Belgian Owl Distillery

Christopher Carlsson writes a website, the Spirits Review.

In 2005 he and his wife traveled to Belgium and spent a few days at the then fledgling Belgian Owl Distillery. He gave his permission to use some of his photos and I asked him if he would be interested in writing a brief account of his experience. Here’s what he put together. - Mark Friedman

We (my wife and I) originally found Etienne through an Internet search when we were looking for places to visit on a trip to Belgium. Our plan was to stop at the National Gin Museum in Hasselt, Belgium and we were looking for other places to visit besides breweries when we stumbled across the Belgian Owl Distillery and its owner Etienne Bouillon.

We ended up meeting Etienne at his storefront in Grace de Hologne (which was a Flower Shop and Liquor Store) where he had knocked out a back wall and dragged in a wheeled farm still.

Somehow we ended up working there and helping out for a few days. There were some very interesting aspects to the whisky trade in Belgium - both its operation and the inevitable involvement of the tax authorities.

Like everywhere else in the world (practically speaking anyway) alcohol is a taxed and regulated commodity where the licensing and production of any alcohol, and particularly distilled products are heavily regulated, monitored and taxed.

Belgium however had its own rather unique peculiarities in regards to the production, taxation, and aging of its distilled whisky products.

In order to produce a whisky in Belgium a tax official must be present to oversee the start-up of a still, monitor its eventual output and then seal both the still and the barrels of distillate after the production run is over.

The distillate is then transported to a customs warehouse where it can be transferred to barrels for aging and racked for storage. The customs warehouse, a heated, guarded building which maintains an office-like temperature year round was in stark contrast to the aging warehouses of either Kentucky or Scotland, where the distillate is aged until it is ready to be bottled in buildings where the temperature fluctuates with the local weather and is then measured and released for bottling.

We spent a lot of time first helping distill the spirits (mostly helping with charging the still while Etienne monitored and supervised) and helping collect the finished whisky in plastic barrels for transport to the customs warehouse.

During this process Etienne would charge the still, heat its contents and then and keep careful track as the whisky tricked out of the condenser, using his sense of smell and taste, as well as a hydrometer to determine the head and tail cuts needed to make sure he was only capturing the heart of the distillation. All this took place under the watchful eye of a customs agent who monitored the output.

After this was done we then waited while they sealed both the barrels and the still with wire and lead seals (to prevent any off the books /after hours production) and then we had to muscle the barrels of malt spirit into a van and drive it to a customs house for barreling and aging.

Christopher

Carllson

Spirit Safe

Foreshots Collection

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