2012 World Whisky of the Year, Old Pulteney 21
2012 World Whisky of the Year, Old Pulteney 21

On their bottle is the iconic image of an old herring drifter, used to bring in the day’s catch. The town grew up around the herring boom of the 19th century. Pultneytown, as it was called then, later merged with Wick and is now an area of town on the River Wick as it leads to the sea.

From a press release on Old Pulteney 21 from the Whisky Bible is this information:
The Pulteney distillery in Wick, Caithness, scored a record-equaling 97.5 points out of 100 for its 21-year-old Old Pulteney single malt. It is only the third time that a single malt has ever won the prestigious award, and just the second Scottish distillery to do so.
Murray said: “I was on the home straight after four months of continuous tasting. By that time I was pretty sure I knew what the winner was going to be. With what I still had to taste it needed something exceptional to knock the leader off its perch. But that’s exactly what happened. To be honest, I was amazed. I knew the Old Pulteney 17-year-old was likely to be exceptional, and it was. However, I had never come across a Pulteney 21-year-old like it. Talk about coming out of leftfield….

Second and third Whiskies of the World went to went to US bourbons George T. Stagg and Parker’s Heritage collection Wheated Mash Bill Bourbon Aged 10 years, respectively.
Just to be clear, Jim Murray’s 2012 winners are really for 2011, as they come at the end of that year’s tasting chores. This year Jim Murray tasted over 1,200 new whiskies plus many more re-tastes for the latest edition.
(As an aside, the Whisky Bible is now available for Android powered cell phones and the iPhone. There are 16 versions, depending on how much info you want at your fingertips, ranging from FREE to $20.43.)
Back to the Pulteney: The 21-year old was launched in 2005. The distillery also produces a 12-year old and 17-year old. In 2009 a 30-year old non-chill filtered bottling was released and a 40-year old is on its way. Wow!
Since 2006 the distillery has been owned by International Beverage Holdings based in Thailand. Their brands include the single malts Old Pulteney, Speyburn, Balmenach, Balbair and AnCnoc. They also own the blends, Hankey Bannister, MacArthur’s, Catto’s and Drummer as well as an Old Pulteney Liqueur.

Along with its new notoriety in the whisky circles for winning this prestigious award, the whole Pulteney line of whisky is notable for a packaging make-over (see old at left and new, below), but you may have a bit of a problem finding the 21 right now. Most on-line retailers are sold out and awaiting new stocks. Here’s another press release that addresses that point.
Shortage Follows Whisky Bible's “World Whisky of the Year” Award
NEW YORK, Dec. 14, 2011 /PRNewswire/ -- International Beverage USA announced the company has virtually run out of Old Pulteney 21-Year-Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky in the U.S. Demand for this premium whisky skyrocketed after it received Jim Murray's “World Whisky of the Year” Award in his definitive 2012 Whisky Bible.
According to Master Distiller Malcolm Waring, when it comes to distilling the 21-year-old single malt, there is no rushing it. “No matter how many hours we work into the night, we simply cannot make the whisky age any faster until it's fully matured to perfection.” Waring adds: “Anyone who has tasted Old Pulteney knows it is worth the wait.”
International Beverage U.S. President Pat Graney expects the next batch to be available in the United States in March 2012. “We knew Old Pulteney 21-Year-Old was a standout product, but we never dreamed it would literally run out. The award is a testament to our product's quality and to American consumers' growing appreciation of fine single malt scotch.”

Well that’s the good and the bad of it as far as availability is concerned.
On to the tasting notes:
Mike, a writer on the Master of Malt Whisky Blog had this to say:
Old Pulteney 21 Year Old is made with whisky that is aged in a higher proportion of sherry casks than its two younger stable-mates. Only 2,000 casks of the 21 are made each year.
Nose: Just a hint of sulphur, which displays itself with a touch of rubber. Sweet notes of lemon curd, apple sauce and butterscotch, with brand butter and whiff of treacle. Very enticing.
Palate: A sweeter, lighter palate than the nose suggests, with a touch of old-fashioned cola, cereals, oak and Shreddies.
Finish: Very maritime, notes of toffee brittle.
In 2007 John Hansell of Whisky Advocate, formerly Malt Advocate had these thoughts on the 21, rating it an 82 (he rated the 17-year old an 87):
“This 21 year old expression is lighter in color and not as sweet or fruity as the younger 17 year old also reviewed here. Very mouthcoating in texture, with notes of dry vanilla, fat barley, coconut, citrus fruit, and pineapple. Long, intensely appetizing, dry salty finish. As an aperitif, or perhaps with seafood.”
In the 6th Edition of Michael Jackson’s Complete Guide to Single Malt Scotch the 21 is rated an 85.
Nose: Earthy, with citrus, medicinal, brine, and spice notes.
Body: Full, oily, mouth-coating
Palate: Rich orange, salty, but at the same time creamy rich, full and sweet
Finish: Soft toffee, some trademark salt and pepper. Pleasantly rounded and impressive.
BUMS tasting notes:
Nose: Lemony citrus, cream soda, pecan nuttiness opens up to blueberry pie filling
Palate: Creamy/spicy vanilla, toffee, lemon zest, dark berries, piquant raisin, custard.
Finish: Warming spicy drying finish
Rating: 80-85
Other media on Old Pulteney:
http://www.whisky.com/brands/old_pulteney_brand.html
http://www.masterofmalt.com/Blog/post/Old-Pulteney-Tasting.aspx
May still be out of stock
Jim Murray’s Whisky Bible Names Old Pulteney 21 Best of the Best
Tuesday, December 20, 2011
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Copyright 2011 Mark Friedman